The Broader Photography Community

In terms of continuing your involvement in photography, here are some ideas:

Contests and Portfolio reviews are a good idea, especially if you want to try and get your work in front of magazine editors, curators or gallerists. Entry fees for contests are usually under $100. Portfolio reviews can be much pricier.

Photo Alliance: A Bay Area based org dedicated to contemporary photography. Lots of workshops: http://www.photoalliance.org/index.php?option=com_extcalendar&Itemid=63


SF Cameraworks: http://www.sfcamerawork.org
Local photo collective with photo related gatherings and exhibits


This blog is an amazing resource, updated regularly. It has current listings for national photo related events and contests via photography marketer Mary Virginia Swanson: http://mvswanson.com/category/mvs-marketing-blog

PDN is a photo industry magazine with annual contests (PDN Photo Annual is very well respected in the field)

Critical Mass/ Photolucida: http://www.photolucida.org/current.php
Photo organization offering contests and portfolio reviews
(Current contest open through July 16)

For photo business resources:
APA - American Photographic Artists
ASMP- American Society of Media Photographers

Photo Festivals and Portfolio Reviews
Photo Lucida
Photo NOLA
PDN Photo Plus
Review Santa Fe
Powerhouse Portfolio Review in Brooklyn
New York Photo Festival (events and reviews)

Women in Photography has ongoing Calls for Submission

Exhibiting your work: A lot of galleries have annual calls for submission where you pay an entry fee in the hope of getting chosen to have your work in a group show. Look on the website of a favorite local gallery to see if they offer this. Several galleries in Half Moon Bay offer juried shows, including the Coastside Land Trust.

Artist collectives like Gallery House in Palo Alto can be a good way to be part of the larger local artist community

Residencies are available worldwide for serious photographic artists. One coveted one is this Paris Residency.

Selling prints of your work on etsy.com is another outlet.

Final Student Portfolios

I am so impressed by the final work coming in. I will post student portfolios here as I receive them. Congrats on a great semester! 

Joel Stuckey: http://jstuckey.carbonmade.com/

Robert Pronovost: http://pronovost.pullfolio.com/portfolios/underwater

Matthieu Speeckaert http://speeckaert.carbonmade.com/

Teri Vershel: http://terivershel.carbonmade.com

Jessica: http://reginap.carbonmade.com/projects/4835773#1

Sheetal Patel: http://passiondedication.carbonmade.com/

TR Lowry: http://trlowry.carbonmade.com/

Images on the Web

Standard Image Size for web:

-72dpi (resolution)
-Usually not wider than 600px

How to save images for Web:

****BE SURE**** NOT to save your original images as web size!!!! RESIZE DUPLICATES ONLY!! Saving an image for web shrinks it and you won't be able to get the original size back!! So it must be done on a duplicate ****

So first, make duplicates of all your master retouched files that are most likely TIFFS if they have layers. If you have them all in a folder, go to FILE > SCRIPTS > IMAGE PROCESSOR. Make them all JPGS in a new folder (do not reduce file size). Should look like this (it will create a new folder of duplicates):

Then....

Save this folder of duplicates to web size by going to FILE > SAVE FOR WEB. This automatically makes the new images 72dpi.
Be sure to save as JPEGs that are approx 600px wide:

Batch Save a Whole Folder Web Size by writing an ACTION:

If you want to save a whole folder of images at web size, you can write an action:
1.) Open an image
2.) WINDOW > ACTIONS to make your actions tab visible.
3.) Make a new action by clicking the "new action" icon at the bottom (looks like a page with the corner folded). Name it, and then RECORDING starts when red light is on!
4.) First thing to record:  IMAGE > IMAGE SIZE. Change "pixel dimensions" width to 600 px. (Don't change resolution or document size. Leave all boxes checked at the bottom. Have "Bicubic Automatic" selected)

5.) Now go to FILE > SAVE FOR WEB. Be sure to have optimized checked and to save as a "high" 60 quality JPEG, Optimized checked. At the bottom choose Bicubic Sharper (this is best for downsizing images). ** You don't need to change image size- it should already be set to 600px wide.

6.) Click "Save" and have it go to a folder you've called "web size images". (Don't rename images, as it can throw off the action. You can rename later in Bridge via TOOLS > BATCH RENAME). Close the image. Don't Save.

7.) Stop your action by hitting the square "stop" button at the bottom of the actions palette.

8.) This has now saved a duplicate of the image as web size! You can now go to FILE > AUTOMATE > BATCH to run that action on a whole folder of images.

Each resulting image should be 600px wide at 72 dpi and ready to email or publish online (to check, go to IMAGE > IMAGE SIZE):

*Sometimes you may notice that once your images appear online they look a little desaturated. If so, you can always go back and boost colors in Photoshop with an S Curve or by adding a little saturation with an adjustment layer, and then re-publishing it online.

*****

Embedding Copyright, Naming Files & Watermarking:

File naming: Using Bridge, you can rename all your files to be consistent and have your name in them, for example, gleeson_web_01.jpg, gleeson_web_02.jpg, gleeson_web_03.jpg...
*I like to name my files with "web" or "Print" in the title so I know which size each JPG is and don't accidentally print a web size image. In Bridge TOOLS > BATCH RENAME (be sure to have the images you want to rename highlighted for it to work).

Copyright: In Bridge, you can create a new Metadata template with all your info in it. Go to TOOLS > CREATE METADATA TEMPLATE. Then in the future, you can apply this to any image you want by going to TOOL > REPLACE METADATA.

Watermarking: In Bridge via the Output Tab, you can make a PDF that has watermarked images either with text or a logo.



Creating an Online Portfolio:

If you don't have a website, you may think about trying this free online portfolio service called Carbon Made: http://carbonmade.com. Here's an examples of a portfolios by a former students of mine: http://hanspurwa.carbonmade.com/   http://dianabphoto.carbonmade.com

Another option that connects to Flickr is http://pullfolio.com

I use Photo Biz, photobiz.com, for my website www.eringleeson.com. It's a drag and drop template for people like me who don't know HTML and web design. Super user friendly, and is about $15/month.

Some free blog formats that are available are Blogger (via gmail), Wordpress (highly customizable templates), Tumblr (built in social media). Each of these offer templates you can buy.

For example, my website/blog The Forest Feast is a Tumblr blog. Although my template is not as customizable as a Wordpress template might be, I wanted to built in social media aspect to attract followers and drive traffic. I bought a $75 template from Pixel Union, and because I wanted something more memorable than forestfeast.tumblr.com, I went to Go Daddy and bought the domain name www.theforestfeast.com and had the 2 connected, for approx $15/year.

Choosing the Right Lens

Prime Lenses: Don't zoom, they are fixed in one position. Advantage: generally cheaper and produce more sharpness/crispness/clarity. Disadvantage: you have to switch lenses often or move around! And you may have to buy several prime lenses to cover your bases, instead of one zoom lens.

Zoom Lenses:
Advantage: you don't have to move as much to get the shot you want, and don't have to switch lenses often. Disadvantage: more expensive, heavier, less sharpness.


What's the Difference between Fast and Slow Lenses?

"Fast" Lenses = you can shoot in lower light (fast lenses go to a low F-stop number, like F1.8 or F2.8)

"Slow" lenses = not great in low-light (slow lenses don't generally go to an F-stop number lower than F4 or F5.6)


Lenses are measured in length, by Millimeters (mm):

-Wide Angle (16mm, 24mm, 35mm...): show more of the scene
-Long (100mm, 200mm, 300mm...): Shoot things farther away (like a telephoto lens)
-Mid-range "normal" lenses are somewhere in between (40mm to 80mm? although it depends on the size of your sensor because lenses on full frame cameras will appear wider...see below).


Longer Lenses Condense the Background. See example image below (image credit: Lynda.com):

Image on left: 100mm lens.  Image on right: 24mm lens. (The photographer shot with a zoom lens and walked closer to the subject when taking the the wide angle shot on the right to be able to crop it the same.)

See how the background looks more condensed and closer in the image on the left? This can also be more flattering when taking portraits, as it doesn't spread the features as much (image credit here.)

Image on left: wide angle lens (24mm?). Image on right: longer lens (100mm?).

How does your sensor affect your lens? 

Cameras with a full frame sensor will make lenses seem wider. (These are generally more expensive or professional cameras so may not affect you). If you upgrade your DSLR to a full frame sensor camera, you may notice your lenses suddenly seem wider. (Some lenses may not be compatible when you upgrade).

In addition to an offered aperture (like F2.8) and length (like 50mm), lenses also contributes to the overall Color, Contrast and Sharpness of your image. Whereas these elements can be added later in Photoshop, it can often be to your advantage if it's done in the camera and offer a unique creative style.

Creative Filters and Collage

Adding Texture/ Blending Mode Multiply

To create antiquing effects, you can use images found online or you can shoot or scan textures you like. You can also photograph textures specifically for this technique. Drag the antique paper (or whatever texture you've found) to the top layer of your image. Change the blending mode of that layer to MULTIPLY and adjust the opacity as needed.




Notice the blending mode of the layer with the paper scan is "Multiply". You can also make a mask, and paint in with black and a low opacity brush to lessen the effect on certain areas of the image (like the face).

Extracting elements of scans for collage:
I scanned this old book because I liked the gold leaf border:

Select a certain area by using Select > Color Range (or the magic wand tool).  I made a selection of the gold border and copied and pasted it into a new empty layer (command C, command V).

Use 'Command T' (free transform) to change the size of the border to fit your image.


Download-able textures:

http://www.mayang.com/textures/

Here's a similar image with multiple layers:


ACTIONS:
You can write your own action by opening your actions tab and clicking the new action icon at the bottom (page with corner folded). Anything you do will be recorded (until you press stop). You may consider recording a series of adjustment layers (like de-saturation, increased contrast, black and white, sepia etc) for an effect you like, then you can play it again later on another image.

PRESETS:
Presets are just for the RAW window. You can write your own and record the steps you have done (all the sliders you have adjusted) on the Presets Tab. (see below) You can also download Presets. You may consider de-saturation, increased contrast,and adding a vignette.

 

PLUG-INS:

There are a variety of downloadable plugins which have automated effects and which you launch through the Photoshop interface (usually via File > Automate). Some are free and others you have to buy. Some good ones are:

http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/suite7/
http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/
http://www.niksoftware.com/nikcollection/usa/intro.html

Compositing: Combining Images

When you combine elements from different images into one, it's called compositing. The main task in doing this is "Selection". You can select a certain area of an image to paste it elsewhere using several different methods. For items with hard defined edges (like a basket ball), you could use the magnetic lasso, magic wand or the (most precise) pen tool. The Pen Tool creates a path, which can then be turned into a selection.

For areas with fuzzy outlines, like a furry cat or someone's hair, making a selection using Refine Edge can be more successful.

Compositing with Quick Selection Tool:

1. Place the image of the subject on top of it’s new background
2. 2.) Using the quick selection tool, make a selection of the subject. Use a small brush for detailed areas and to be more precise. Hold down command for the “minus” tool.
3. Select > Refine Edge. Use the “On layers” view.
4. Use the refine radius tool ( next to edge detection” to go around edges, especially hair.
5. Export as a layer mask. Continue to refine the mask with black or white brushes as needed

Compositing with Channels:

Below, I used a Channels mask to select a bird and place it on a new background. The photo is by one of your fellow students, Dona Foster. The new background (her idea) is a scanned in piece of old paper. This image worked especially well because there was a monotone background.

Pen Tool:

The Pen tool is the most precise way to select an area of an image. For example, if you want to cut someone out of an image and place them on a new background, you can trace the outline of the person most accurately with the pen tool.

The Pen tool does not write, it is just used to make a selection. You use it to make a path: a path is created by making several points on the perimeter of a that person you want to cut out . You then "connect the dots" to create an outline. This series of "dots" or anchors that you make is called a path. To see your path as it's created, go to WINDOW > PATHS and make sure there is a check next to it.

I generally work clockwise around the perimeter of an object to make a path. Make sure you are zoomed WAY in (like to 200%). Click to make an anchor. Click and pull to make an anchor with 2 arms that will create a curve.

After tracing around the entire bottle with the pen tool, I turned the path into a selection by clicking the little dotted circle at the bottom of the paths palette. (Path and anchors must be live/visible for this to work. If it's not working, click on your path with the pen tool until you can see the anchor points. Then click the dotted circle).

Notice the order of my layers above. On new separate layer under the bottle, fill that same shape with gray. EDIT > FILL with 50% gray. Lower the opacity and FILTER > BLUR> GAUSSIAN BLUR to make the shadow look more natural. Command T (EDIT > FREE TRANSFORM) to make the shadow change position. You can also try EDIT > TRANSFORM > SKEW:

Curves Dodge & Burn

You can use a Curves adjustment layer to brighten (dodge) or darken (burn) selective areas of an image.

For example, in the image below, I added one Dodge layer to brighten select areas. The result is an image that looks more dynamic and less flat:

In your adjustments palette, choose the Curves icon. Drag from the middle up for brightening, or down for darkening:

This automatically makes a mask for you. Invert the mask (command i) and then paint with a WHITE SOFT BRUSH on the mask, just on the areas where you want to see the change.

Remember, on a mask: White reveals, Black conceals. Above, I have painted with white JUST where I want the change to show through.